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Sweater, Meet Ribbon: A Brief History of Grosgrain Ribbon
When it comes to classic textile trims, few are as versatile and enduring as grosgrain ribbon. Understanding grosgrain ribbon's unique characteristics and rich history can deepen your appreciation for this timeless trim.
Even if you're familiar with grosgrain ribbons, you may not be aware of its extensive versatility and countless applications. There's more to it than meets the eye! This guide will provide you with comprehensive insights into grosgrain ribbon, from its origins to its myriad uses.
What is Grosgrain Ribbon?
The word grosgrain is French and pronounced “gro-grain.” It refers to a thick ribbon distinguished by a ribbed texture that runs across its width and repeats along its length. Say the word grosgrain and what springs to mind? Ribbon, as in hair bows, hatbands, and prettily wrapped presents.
This classic textile was first developed hundreds of years ago and initially referred to fabric, not ribbon. It was valued for its durability and commonly used for waistcoats, jackets, petticoats, breeches, and more. Today grosgrain ribbon is still indispensable in millinery and evening wear, whether to fashion hatbands, bow ties, and cummerbunds or to accent tuxedo jackets and trousers.
How is Grosgrain Made?
Historically made from wool, silk, or a blend of the two, grosgrain can be made from various materials. In the past, it was commonly woven from natural fibers like silk or wool. Today, grosgrain ribbon is made primarily from acetate or polyester. Acetate is made from wood fibers, whereas polyester is a manmade fiber. Acetate has a silkier feel and a lustrous quality compared to polyester.
Manufactured with a taffeta weave using a heavy weft, grosgrain ribbon employs a crisscrossing fiber technique akin to an under-over method. This weaving method ensures the ribbon's durability by preventing breakage. The ribbon's tight weave, with heavier warp threads than weft threads, gives it added strength and structure, making it durable and excellent for maintaining its shape.
Overview of the History
Grosgrain ribbon has a storied past rooted in the silk trade and artisanal craftsmanship. Silk grosgrain ribbon was used as an embellishment for clothing beginning in the late 1700s.
The Industrial Revolution introduced the power loom, revolutionizing ribbon production and making grosgrain more accessible. It continued to gain in popularity in the United States and a robust ribbon making industry emerged at the end of the 19th century in New Jersey.
Paterson, New Jersey was the hub and earned the nickname "Silk City" due to its concentration of silk textile manufacturing concerns. Many skilled workers from England and other European countries moved to the United States and helped grow the industry here. Supporting this ribbon industry was a network of silk dyeing operations, such as the De Gise Dye Works, later purchased by the Susquehanna Silk Mills of Sunbury, Pennsylvania, and renamed the Susquehanna Silk & Dyeing Company.
Among the notable ribbon makers of this era was the Columbia Ribbon Company, founded by German immigrant John Grossegebauer in the 1890s. Starting with just $750 and a single loom in Manhattan, Grossegebauer built his business through determination and perseverance, eventually establishing a substantial operation producing hatbands in Haledon, New Jersey. Grossegebauer's business employed 300 workers at its peak, making it one of the region's significant ribbon producers.
Other prominent manufacturers included Pelgram & Meyer and Tailore-Friedsom Company, all contributing to the area's reputation for quality ribbon production.
American ribbon manufacturers became known for distinctive patterns, including the Roman stripe—a classic pattern that became particularly associated with U.S.-made ribbon.
The 1913 Paterson Silk Strike
The working conditions in the mills were often difficult. From February through July 1913, workers in many of Paterson's silk mills went on strike, demanding better working conditions, shorter hours, and fair wages. This historic labor action, known as the Paterson Silk Strike, was one of the most significant labor disputes of the era. When the strike ended in late July, the ribbon weavers were among the few groups of workers who successfully achieved some of the changes they had fought for.
These samples, likely made by the very workers who had returned from the strike, serve as tangible reminders of both the artistry of American ribbon weaving and the labor movement that helped improve conditions for textile workers. Today, examples of Pelgram & Meyer and Tailore-Friedsom ribbon and other Paterson-made grosgrain can be found in the Smithsonian's collection, offering us a window into an important chapter of American manufacturing and labor history.
As textile manufacturing evolved through the 20th century, years of labor unrest and changing economic conditions eventually led many mills to close or relocate to the South.
Today, there are few manufacturers left in the United States that make grosgrain ribbon. At Noyac Knits, we value American manufacturing and use American-made ribbon on our sweaters. While some of our ribbon is currently made, we also use vintage ribbon made in U.S. mills.
Grosgrain and the Preppy Revolution
While American ribbon manufacturing was in decline, grosgrain ribbon found new life as a defining element of preppy style. During the 1970s and 1980s, grosgrain became a hallmark of American heritage fashion, embodying the clean-cut, collegiate aesthetic that defined the era. The ribbon's crisp texture and ability to hold its shape made it the perfect trim for the tailored, polished look that characterized preppy style.
Grosgrain ribbon trim became particularly iconic on headbands, belts, and cardigans during the 1980s. The contrast of grosgrain's structured, ribbed texture against soft knits created a refined, put-together look that became synonymous with East Coast prep schools, country clubs, and Ivy League campuses.
Noyac Knits: Honoring Heritage, Embracing Modern Craft
Today, Noyac Knits carries forward this rich American tradition. Inspired by the heritage designs and craftsmanship of American grosgrain ribbon makers, our ribbon-trimmed cardigans pay homage to the 1980s preppy aesthetic while embracing modern techniques and sensibilities. Each piece is a nod to that golden era of heritage prep—when quality, craftsmanship, and timeless style mattered above all.
Our cardigans are made with modern looms and designed for a contemporary fit, but the spirit remains true to the classic American style that made grosgrain-trimmed knitwear iconic. By incorporating grosgrain ribbon trim into our designs, we honor the legacy of the skilled ribbon weavers of Paterson and Haledon, the artistry of American textile manufacturing, and the enduring appeal of preppy style. It's a celebration of American craft, past and present, woven into every stitch.
Ready to wear a piece of that history? Explore our Classic Ribbon Cardigans, Crop Cardigans, and Ribbon Cardigan Twin Sets — each one handcrafted in the USA with signature American-made grosgrain ribbon trim.
Sources:
"Silk Weavers' Wages Increased," New York Times, March 13, 1901.
Baptista, Robert J. "Columbia Ribbon Company, Haledon, New Jersey," January 20, 2008.
"4-Story Factory Bought in Jersey; Former Columbia Ribbon Mill in Haledon in Deal," New York Times, May 17, 1963.
Kvasager, Whitney. "Now a Senior Center, Mill Opened in 1909," Herald News, January 5, 2004.
The Official Preppy Handbook, by Lisa Birnbach, Jonathan Roberts, Carol McD. Wallace, Mason Wiley (1980).
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object/nmah_637034
https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object/nmah_678786
https://history.textiles.ncsu.edu/textile-companies/columbia-ribbon-co/
https://orb.binghamton.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1334&context=neha
https://patersonmuseum.com/permanent-exhibits-2/silk-city/
https://www.wnyc.org/story/182974-blog-niche-market-ribbons/
