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Walk through Ridgewood today, along the Brooklyn-Queens border between Maspeth and Glendale, and you'll find quiet streets lined with converted warehouses and residential buildings, bakeries and shops with a hipster vibe. But between 1920 and 1960, this neighborhood hummed with the rhythm of knitting machines, the chatter of factory workers, and the pride of an industry that clothed America.
At its peak, Brooklyn and Queens were home to more than 500 knitwear factories—an integrated ecosystem of spin houses, yarn suppliers, needle and dye manufacturers, showrooms, and mills that formed the backbone of American fashion. By some estimates, three out of every four sweaters worn in the United States came from mills right here in Brooklyn and Queens.
Historic mills like Derlath's G&E Knitting Mills, Jamco Knitwear, Paris Knitting Mills, Mary D Knitting Mills, and Ricke Knitting Mills provided solid blue collar jobs for tens of thousands of workers and offered opportunities for the constant influx of newcomers to the United States seeking the American Dream.
Between 1920 and 1960, the neighborhood hummed with industry. The area was a whole ecosystem with small factories, yarn, dye, and needle suppliers. It is estimated that three out of four sweaters worn in the United States was made in this area of New York at one time.
By the mid-1980s, the industry was in crisis. Competition from abroad, especially Asia, where lower wages and different labor standards allowed for mass-produced knitwear at dramatically lower costs—began flooding the American market. The impact was devastating.
A December 1, 1985 New York Times article by Joseph P. Fried, "Trade Issue Hits Home in a Queens Community," chronicled the decline in real time. New Yorkers in the garment and textile industry overwhelmingly favored Congressional action to reduce textile imports from Asia, contending it was unfair competition when workers abroad were paid low wages and worked in substandard conditions.
The debate reached a fever pitch in Congress. The Textile Trade Enforcement Act (also called the Jenkins Act), passed in 1985, would have reduced apparel imports from Asia by 25-30% and imposed smaller cuts on imports from other countries. But President Reagan vetoed the bill, criticizing it as protectionist legislation that would hurt consumers and encourage foreign retaliation. There was a bi-partisan effort in Congress to override the veto, but it failed. A 1988 article in the New Yorker by James Lardner provides a detailed and dramatic telling of an industry in crisis and the policies that helped bring an end to what was once a robust industry. Tens of thousands of jobs were lost.
The influx of cheap imports didn't just impact Brooklyn and Queens—it decimated New York City's historic Garment District as well, causing countless factories and shops to close there as well.
While some argued that the influx of cheap goods helped American consumers who wanted to buy them, the trade-off came at an enormous cost: the loss of an entire industry, the erosion of middle-class stability, and the end of a proud manufacturing tradition. The deluge of imports also gave rise to a bigger and bigger trade deficit along with the massive job losses.
Fast fashion did allow for cheap clothing, but quality suffered. Many fast fashion companies elected to use synthetic materials instead of natural fibers like merino wool and Egyptian cotton and began making generic shaped products that stretched out and did not hold their shape. They used cut-and-sew methods that resulted in textile waste and lower-quality garments.
Not everyone lost faith in American manufacturing. Today, efforts are underway to bring industry back to Brooklyn powered by 21st century technology. At Noyac Knits, our sweaters are knit in Brooklyn by Tailored Industries on modern knitting machines using the latest 3D technology. We are proud to be part of bringing back this historic industry to Brooklyn and to partner with Tailored Industries.
And what is special about 3D knitting you ask? There are many advantages. It allows for the design of one-of-a-kind knitwear without bulky seams like fully fashioned knitwear. It allows for knit on demand, meaning it is eco-friendly, reducing the waste of creating unnecessary textile waste. Less than 1% of material ends up as waste in the 3D knitting process, whereas other methods of making knitwear can end up with up to 15% wasted material. Of course, when high-quality yarn is used, the 3D knitting process results in a high quality sweater that is durable and made to last. (See Shima Seiki & Sino Fine Tex on seamless knitting waste.)
At Noyac Knits, we believe in American-made products and American workers. We make a conscious choice to manufacture here, honoring the tradition of those Brooklyn mills that came before us and embracing modern technology and the highest quality imported yarns to create premium knitwear.
We also honor American ribbon makers of the past—and those who remain—by using American-made ribbon in the striped patterns that the United States was once famous for. Our signature pearlized buttons are crafted right here in NYC's Garment District by a master button maker, keeping alive the artisanal skills that defined an era.
Every detail matters. Every choice counts. Every stitch is a statement.
What happened to Brooklyn's knitwear industry?
Brooklyn and Queens were home to up to 500 knitwear mills between 1920 and 1960, producing an estimated three out of four sweaters worn in the United States. The industry collapsed in the 1980s due to a flood of cheap imports from Asia. President Reagan's veto of the Textile Trade Enforcement Act in 1985 accelerated the decline, resulting in the loss of tens of thousands of jobs.
What is 3D knitting?
3D knitting is a modern manufacturing process that produces a complete garment on a single machine with virtually no seams and minimal waste. Less than 1% of material ends up as waste in the 3D knitting process, compared to up to 15% waste with traditional cut-and-sew methods. It also allows for knit-on-demand production, making it more eco-friendly and reducing overproduction.
What is fully fashioned knitwear?
Fully fashioned knitwear refers to garments where each panel is knit to shape before being seamed together, as opposed to cut-and-sew methods where fabric is cut from a larger piece and stitched. Fully fashioned knitwear reduces waste compared to cut-and-sew but still produces visible seams. 3D knitting goes a step further by eliminating seams almost entirely.
Where are Noyac Knits sweaters made?
Noyac Knits sweaters are knit in Brooklyn, New York by Tailored Industries using modern 3D knitting machines. This is a conscious choice to honor the legacy of Brooklyn's historic knitwear industry and support American manufacturing and American workers.
Why does American-made knitwear cost more?
American-made knitwear reflects the true cost of fair wages, quality natural fibers, and responsible manufacturing. Fast fashion imported from abroad often relies on lower wages, synthetic materials, and cut-and-sew methods that produce lower-quality garments that lose their shape over time. American-made pieces are built to last.
What yarns does Noyac Knits use?
Noyac Knits uses premium natural fibers including merino wool and Egyptian cotton. Natural fibers are breathable, durable, and hold their shape far better than the synthetic materials commonly used in fast fashion imports.
